What current NYC restaurant captures the old Les Halles vibe?

I used to live a few blocks from the original Les Halles, and it had this perfectly unpretentious energy, loud, chaotic, the kind of place where you could just walk in, order steak frites and a glass of wine, and feel like you were part of the city. I’ve been trying to think of what place today even comes close. Minetta Tavern feels too polished, The Smith and The Consulate have some of the right energy, and maybe Pastis comes close, but none really capture that same magic.

So I’m curious, what restaurant that’s still open in NYC actually feels like Les Halles?